Something I have experienced in the last 10 months has been people's interactions with each other and the way they differ from the American way I am used to. In the western world people are abrupt. They throw temper tantrums and fight for what they want, never for a second forgetting that they are the most important thing in the whole world and that everyone should bow down to them.
Moroccans, on the other hand, are much more passive. Cautious of new people and not generally looking at getting into a fight over a non-issue (excluding teenage boys who love to fight and bicker). They are "chill".
Today I got on the CTM bus to get my sister. As it turns out, it was 15dh cheaper than taking the taxi but about an hour longer. I decided to save my 15dh. When I got on the bus, no one was on. Then a huge German family got on and sat around me. Technically the busses have seat numbers and generally they are followed but today the bus was empty, so I sat where I wanted. By the time we got to Agadir (20km away) there was a whole bus full of people waiting to get on. This is when the drama started.
This family wanted to sit together so whenever Moroccans came over and requested one of the seats I just asked them if it was okay they sit somewhere else so the family could sit together. They had no problems.
Two minutes before we go to pull out these two French ladies get on the bus and find that their seats are taken by the family. Instead of asking nicely, they start throwing a temper tantrum. Yelling in French, grabbing bags and moving them, ect. They made so much commotion that the CTM employee got on and was trying to figure out what was going on. In the meantime one lady grabbed my backpack and threw it on the ground. I was not happy.
After these two older ladies finished yelling, I asked the CTM man if he would take my bag and put it under the bus so the yelling lady could sit down. He then told me (in Tashlheet so they didn't understand) that he was tired of tourists yelling and being angry for no reason. He also said he didn't want to go to France if the people were like the ladies there. I (along wiht the rest of the Moroccans) started laughing and this did not sit well with the women who threw my bag on the ground.
The issue was that since her and her friend got on the bus last they would have to sit apart when their printed tickets had seats next to each other. My opinion is that when you get on a full bus two minutes before its pulling out, you just deal with it.
After the CTM man got off the bus to move my bag, the lady started yelling at me in English about how I needed to move so that she and her friend could sit together. I said that I wanted this window seat and didn't want to move. She proceeded to huff and puff her way around the bus, making all the Moroccans uncomfortable until the German guy behind me started telling her to "sit down and shut up".
After watching two grown women throw temper tantrums on a full bus, I moved to a non-window seat up the way, next to a really nice french guy. The poor guy was so embarrassed they were French and he kept apologizing.
The CTM guy got back on, after getting his manager, and realized I had obliged and changed seats. He thanked me (in Tashlheet) and started telling me I was welcome on his busses anytime. I just told him that crazy people just like the ladies exist in America too.
He laughed and we pulled away.
The moral of this story is that two grown women, who threw temper tantrums, got what they wanted and managed to aggravate everyone else on the bus giving yet another bad impression of "pushy" and "loud" western tourists who come to Morocco and demand what they want with little regard to everyone else.
This was a time when I was pretty proud to have been an American/ Moroccan.
Tuesday, December 21, 2010
Saturday, December 18, 2010
Good friends, Good hike.
My weekends have been filled with visiting volunteers and attempting to create the Christmas sprit I feel so empty with out. A few weekends ago I made the beautiful trip to nearby Tafroute. We stayed at Nicole's beautiful place, ate delicious food (as usual), watched great movies/ shows and got some much needed America time. We even hiked out to these painted rocks that were painted in the early 80's by some German guy. Nicole compares it to a real-life Candy Land and I think thats pretty accurate. It wa was a great weekend with great company!
HIking the painted rocks.
Its significantly colder at Sami and Dave's than at my place. We were in the middle of a Freaks and Geeks marathon.
HIking the painted rocks.
Its significantly colder at Sami and Dave's than at my place. We were in the middle of a Freaks and Geeks marathon.
My food slump makes a glorious comeback.
So I have been basically cooking from scratch for the last 5 months and it finally started to get old.
I was getting tired of the taste of the same fruits and veggies (oranges, peppers, carrots, onions, tomatoes) and getting annoyed with the similar taste most dishes had. For the last 2 weeks, this has been an issue. I have drained my stash of licorice and eaten through most of my American food but today I made en epic comeback. Cinammon rolls.
They tasted so great and were made complete from scratch. Heres the recipie if your interested. Maybe they can bring joy to your day too :)
Cinnamon Rolls:
In a medium mixing bowl, combine 2 cups of flour and yeast. Set aside.
In a small sauce pan heat 1 cup of milk, 1/3 cup sugar, 1/3 cup butter and 1 teaspoon salt until warm; stirring constantly.
Pour liquid mixture into flour mixture and stir.
Beat in 2 eggs for at least 5 minutes.
On a lightly floured surface, knead with 2 cups flour to make a moderatly stiff dough that is smooth and elastic, about 6-8 minutes.
Shape into a ball and put into a greased bowl.
Let rise in a warm place for 1-2 hours.
Roll out the dough to a 1/2 inch thickness.
Brush the dough with melted butter, sugar and cinnamon.
Cut into 1 1/2 inch strips and roll up.
Place in a buttered pan and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar.
Bake for about 15 minutes.
While warm, top with frosting.
Frosting:
Add soft butter to powdered sugar. Slowly add milk until desired consistency is reached.
(This recipe is courtesy of the Moroccan Peace Corps Volunteer's cookbook, 2010).
I was getting tired of the taste of the same fruits and veggies (oranges, peppers, carrots, onions, tomatoes) and getting annoyed with the similar taste most dishes had. For the last 2 weeks, this has been an issue. I have drained my stash of licorice and eaten through most of my American food but today I made en epic comeback. Cinammon rolls.
They tasted so great and were made complete from scratch. Heres the recipie if your interested. Maybe they can bring joy to your day too :)
Cinnamon Rolls:
In a medium mixing bowl, combine 2 cups of flour and yeast. Set aside.
In a small sauce pan heat 1 cup of milk, 1/3 cup sugar, 1/3 cup butter and 1 teaspoon salt until warm; stirring constantly.
Pour liquid mixture into flour mixture and stir.
Beat in 2 eggs for at least 5 minutes.
On a lightly floured surface, knead with 2 cups flour to make a moderatly stiff dough that is smooth and elastic, about 6-8 minutes.
Shape into a ball and put into a greased bowl.
Let rise in a warm place for 1-2 hours.
Roll out the dough to a 1/2 inch thickness.
Brush the dough with melted butter, sugar and cinnamon.
Cut into 1 1/2 inch strips and roll up.
Place in a buttered pan and sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar.
Bake for about 15 minutes.
While warm, top with frosting.
Frosting:
Add soft butter to powdered sugar. Slowly add milk until desired consistency is reached.
(This recipe is courtesy of the Moroccan Peace Corps Volunteer's cookbook, 2010).
Wednesday, December 15, 2010
Life in a Facebook World.
Sitting at the bus stop, typing on my computer. Somewhat risky behavior but I hid behind busses to prevent any possible theifs from getting too close. A boy, maybe 16 or 17 approaches me and in French tells me my bus isn't here yet. Random. After a few minutes of trying to talk to me in French, I tell him I don't speak French. Trying to ignore him, he blurts out "I have Facebook, will you be my friend?"
The other day a few volunteers and I watched the new Sorkin movie, "The Social Network" and it got me thinking a lot about the impact social media has on us, our "modern" and "technological" generation. A random Moroccan telling me in perfect English to be his friend on Facebook is just another example of that. Also, if you haven't seen the movie, you should. The writing was great (of course its Sorkin, who also brought the world "The West Wing") but its genuinely funny and provides some interesting insight to a website that has gotten more clicks than Google some weeks.
Facebook (and other social media outlets) connects people from all over the globe in a way even the telephone couldn't. Here Moroccans can learn about American culture, French movies and Indian music, all via the web.
Most of the women in my village can't read and some have never even ventured further than 40km away but their children are worlds away. Checking Facebook, Skyping friends, reading up on the latest trends and learning more about the world than their mother's could ever dream of.
This is the reality of social media. While I will not be Mohammed's friend on Facebook, it is cool to think about what sort of things he can learn and share with this one tool.
Just something to think about.
The other day a few volunteers and I watched the new Sorkin movie, "The Social Network" and it got me thinking a lot about the impact social media has on us, our "modern" and "technological" generation. A random Moroccan telling me in perfect English to be his friend on Facebook is just another example of that. Also, if you haven't seen the movie, you should. The writing was great (of course its Sorkin, who also brought the world "The West Wing") but its genuinely funny and provides some interesting insight to a website that has gotten more clicks than Google some weeks.
Facebook (and other social media outlets) connects people from all over the globe in a way even the telephone couldn't. Here Moroccans can learn about American culture, French movies and Indian music, all via the web.
Most of the women in my village can't read and some have never even ventured further than 40km away but their children are worlds away. Checking Facebook, Skyping friends, reading up on the latest trends and learning more about the world than their mother's could ever dream of.
This is the reality of social media. While I will not be Mohammed's friend on Facebook, it is cool to think about what sort of things he can learn and share with this one tool.
Just something to think about.
December Adventures.
The weeks in Morocco just seem to get better and better. What a welcome relief.
Here is an update of a few things that have happened recently.
- I have learned how to make Chai tea. Yes I was a HUGE Chai fan in the states but once I got over here, I realized I have no idea how to make it. Thankfully Nicole, my savior, taught me and supplied me with some key ingredients to make it. Now my life is complete. I have been drinking delicious homemade Chai tea and even found an ingredient supplier in Tiznit. After wandering around the souk area (which I regularly avoid) I found my "spice guy". Morocco is known for its spice vendors (despite the lack of spice in most Moroccan dishes) and I feel like one of the last volunteers without a spice guy. The good news is that my spice guy is very nice, patient with my broken Tashlheet and doesn't speak French to me, three key things in a good Hanut guy. Today I bought some key ingredients for my Chai tea and even some cinnamon sticks for the apple cider I am hoping to make this week. Towards the end of our encounter I asked him to get me some cardamom pods. He told me that since he had to import them from India they were expensive. I told him it was fine and he poured me some. Turns out "expensive" means 5 dh, so not expensive. I am feeling good about this new relationship and my new supply of lots of "hard to get" ingredients.
-My electricity has been pretty reliable compared to most other volunteers/ villages in Morocco. I have only lost electricity once or twice compared to some volunteers loosing it daily. Recently the winds have started picking up and my electricity has started to flicker so I figured it was only a matter of time before it went out. As it turns out my breaker box made a loud noise and all the electricity went off. A little fearful of reseting the box when it was so windy outside I just left the electricity off and studied for the LSAT by candle light. The next morning I woke up, reset the box and headed to Tafroute to celebrate Dave's birthday. What I failed to remember was that my oven, which was sitting on top of my ponges (couch) was never unplugged from when the electricity went off. I left for the weekend and when I returned a few days later I smelled something, unsure of what it was I started checking the fridge, heater and even the Buta gas container but all of them were off. A few hours later I went to sit on my ponges and read when I noticed the oven was plugged in. Damn. I had left my oven, on top of my ponge, on full heat for a few days.
I am lucky nothing caught on fire (not that there is a lot of flamable things in my house) and instead it just burned the ponge cover. I am actually grateful for the ponge cover burning and here's why.
-Moving into any home is stressful. Moving into a rock home without running water in the middle of a remodel in a small Moroccan village is beyond stressful. Its downright hard. Due to these stresses and the overwhelming feeling of needing a space of my own, I made some mistakes early on. Of course heinsight is always 20/20 but one major mistake was the covers for my ponges. My co-op and counterpart donated some stuff on my behalf for my new home. One of those things was a large rug. Its green, black and red in a crazy design and has seen better days but I was happy to have it. Initially thinking I was going to use the rug in my bedroom, I bought custom ponge covers from a shop in Tiznit. When I picked out the fabric, I thought it would be awesome. It was sort of a Moroccan version of Vera Bradly. As it turns out, the fabric was ugly, expensive and makes my living room look terrible. Moroccans even comment on the terrible clash of patterns and colors which says a lot since my villagers don't exactly have "matching" and "coordinating" down. I have been wanting to replace them for quite some time but felt like it was a frivolous use of money. Then something awesome happened. My oven burnt my cover and now I have to replace them since one is burnt, right? This time I ventured into Tiznit without a Moroccan and vowed to pick a fabric I liked and get something that matches. I did exactly that.
After checking out quite a few shops on the street of fabrics, I found a guy. A really nice, non-creepy guy. He was patient with my broken Tashlheet and new vocab words. Best of all, he gave me a GREAT price. Instead of 150 per ponge for the covers he is only charging me 200dh total, for 3 ponge covers and two pillow cases, all in black. Awesome.
I knew the day would come when my confidence with the language and culture, my knowledge of "good" prices and my abaility to ignore harassment would make my shopping experiences fun and the day has come. I had fun shopping for ponge covers today and am hoping that they will greatly improve the look of my living room, actually I am confident of it.
-This week I witnessed my first Moroccan funeral. I have celebrated most other Moroccan cultural events including holidays, weddings and births but had yet to experience a funeral. After heading into souk to pick up some eggs and check my mailbox I saw the Moroccan equalivent of a funeral procession. A station wagon cab with the seats removed holding a wooden platform/ coffin carrying a deceased man with a train of his (male) family and friends following along singing. Once they reached the end of the souk they continued to processional on foot to the mosque where the prayers happened. It was interesting to see the processional and how much respect everyone in the village gave as the processional passed by.
-I finally cleaned my computer after about 10 months of dirt and dust. I broke out my magic eraser from America and gave my computer its much needed bath. It looks so much better, new even.
-Thanks to some fellow volunteers I have recently been able to catch up on some much needed movie time by watching Shrek Ever After, Toy Story 3 and the Christmas Glee. I enjoy my small glimpses of America.
-I have been listening to as much Christmas music as possible, fondly remembering snow, Christmas lights and the holiday prep!
-Finally, my sister comes in just 6 days. I am finalizing plans, cleaning up my house, buying supplies and getting my money situation figured out. My vacation forms are submitted to Peace Corps for our post- Morocco Madrid adventure. I can hardly sleep most nights because of how excited I am for her to arrive! I cannot wait to see her in Marrakech! It should be a fun month and you can check out her blog (and mine) for pictures and post from her travels. (www.clairestuckel.blogspot.com)
Happy Holidays to all!
Here is an update of a few things that have happened recently.
- I have learned how to make Chai tea. Yes I was a HUGE Chai fan in the states but once I got over here, I realized I have no idea how to make it. Thankfully Nicole, my savior, taught me and supplied me with some key ingredients to make it. Now my life is complete. I have been drinking delicious homemade Chai tea and even found an ingredient supplier in Tiznit. After wandering around the souk area (which I regularly avoid) I found my "spice guy". Morocco is known for its spice vendors (despite the lack of spice in most Moroccan dishes) and I feel like one of the last volunteers without a spice guy. The good news is that my spice guy is very nice, patient with my broken Tashlheet and doesn't speak French to me, three key things in a good Hanut guy. Today I bought some key ingredients for my Chai tea and even some cinnamon sticks for the apple cider I am hoping to make this week. Towards the end of our encounter I asked him to get me some cardamom pods. He told me that since he had to import them from India they were expensive. I told him it was fine and he poured me some. Turns out "expensive" means 5 dh, so not expensive. I am feeling good about this new relationship and my new supply of lots of "hard to get" ingredients.
-My electricity has been pretty reliable compared to most other volunteers/ villages in Morocco. I have only lost electricity once or twice compared to some volunteers loosing it daily. Recently the winds have started picking up and my electricity has started to flicker so I figured it was only a matter of time before it went out. As it turns out my breaker box made a loud noise and all the electricity went off. A little fearful of reseting the box when it was so windy outside I just left the electricity off and studied for the LSAT by candle light. The next morning I woke up, reset the box and headed to Tafroute to celebrate Dave's birthday. What I failed to remember was that my oven, which was sitting on top of my ponges (couch) was never unplugged from when the electricity went off. I left for the weekend and when I returned a few days later I smelled something, unsure of what it was I started checking the fridge, heater and even the Buta gas container but all of them were off. A few hours later I went to sit on my ponges and read when I noticed the oven was plugged in. Damn. I had left my oven, on top of my ponge, on full heat for a few days.
I am lucky nothing caught on fire (not that there is a lot of flamable things in my house) and instead it just burned the ponge cover. I am actually grateful for the ponge cover burning and here's why.
-Moving into any home is stressful. Moving into a rock home without running water in the middle of a remodel in a small Moroccan village is beyond stressful. Its downright hard. Due to these stresses and the overwhelming feeling of needing a space of my own, I made some mistakes early on. Of course heinsight is always 20/20 but one major mistake was the covers for my ponges. My co-op and counterpart donated some stuff on my behalf for my new home. One of those things was a large rug. Its green, black and red in a crazy design and has seen better days but I was happy to have it. Initially thinking I was going to use the rug in my bedroom, I bought custom ponge covers from a shop in Tiznit. When I picked out the fabric, I thought it would be awesome. It was sort of a Moroccan version of Vera Bradly. As it turns out, the fabric was ugly, expensive and makes my living room look terrible. Moroccans even comment on the terrible clash of patterns and colors which says a lot since my villagers don't exactly have "matching" and "coordinating" down. I have been wanting to replace them for quite some time but felt like it was a frivolous use of money. Then something awesome happened. My oven burnt my cover and now I have to replace them since one is burnt, right? This time I ventured into Tiznit without a Moroccan and vowed to pick a fabric I liked and get something that matches. I did exactly that.
After checking out quite a few shops on the street of fabrics, I found a guy. A really nice, non-creepy guy. He was patient with my broken Tashlheet and new vocab words. Best of all, he gave me a GREAT price. Instead of 150 per ponge for the covers he is only charging me 200dh total, for 3 ponge covers and two pillow cases, all in black. Awesome.
I knew the day would come when my confidence with the language and culture, my knowledge of "good" prices and my abaility to ignore harassment would make my shopping experiences fun and the day has come. I had fun shopping for ponge covers today and am hoping that they will greatly improve the look of my living room, actually I am confident of it.
-This week I witnessed my first Moroccan funeral. I have celebrated most other Moroccan cultural events including holidays, weddings and births but had yet to experience a funeral. After heading into souk to pick up some eggs and check my mailbox I saw the Moroccan equalivent of a funeral procession. A station wagon cab with the seats removed holding a wooden platform/ coffin carrying a deceased man with a train of his (male) family and friends following along singing. Once they reached the end of the souk they continued to processional on foot to the mosque where the prayers happened. It was interesting to see the processional and how much respect everyone in the village gave as the processional passed by.
-I finally cleaned my computer after about 10 months of dirt and dust. I broke out my magic eraser from America and gave my computer its much needed bath. It looks so much better, new even.
-Thanks to some fellow volunteers I have recently been able to catch up on some much needed movie time by watching Shrek Ever After, Toy Story 3 and the Christmas Glee. I enjoy my small glimpses of America.
-I have been listening to as much Christmas music as possible, fondly remembering snow, Christmas lights and the holiday prep!
-Finally, my sister comes in just 6 days. I am finalizing plans, cleaning up my house, buying supplies and getting my money situation figured out. My vacation forms are submitted to Peace Corps for our post- Morocco Madrid adventure. I can hardly sleep most nights because of how excited I am for her to arrive! I cannot wait to see her in Marrakech! It should be a fun month and you can check out her blog (and mine) for pictures and post from her travels. (www.clairestuckel.blogspot.com)
Happy Holidays to all!
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